We just spent a week in Bali, Indonesia (all of our pictures are posted here). To be honest, it wasn’t quite what I expected. Now, to also be fair, I think my expectations were quite out of proportion. We were told: “Bali is paradise” and that we should make sure to visit the “hidden gem” of Ubud. So, that’s pretty much what I expected – paradise with hidden gems. Not so much. Don’t get me wrong, Bali was very nice. Part of our vacation was very relaxing (thanks Mithra!), part of our vacation was cultural, and part of our vacation was active. Generally speaking, I would say that’s a good vacation. And, if I hadn’t had any expectations of Bali, it would have been wonderful. But, it’s Bali, and you do kind of have expectations, right? I mean why are all these people flying all the way around the world from the US, Canada, Europe to go to Bali if it’s not the wondrous paradise everyone says it is? Well, I can’t really answer that question because I didn’t see it. Maybe it’s because we travel a lot, and maybe it’s because we’re living in South East Asia already, and maybe it’s because there were so many people everywhere. Who knows. All I know is don’t even consider going to Bali unless it’s a measly 3 hour flight away from where you live (and even at that I’m not sure it’s worth it).
With the negatives out of the way, here’s the lowdown on our trip. Should you go to Bali, despite my earlier warnings, perhaps you will find this information useful.
We started with a 4 day stay in Nusa Dua at the amazing Grand Hyatt (thanks to Mithra for making that whole experience affordable for us). The Grand Hyatt was beautiful. If you’re looking for a beach vacation in any-town, SE Asia, this is the spot for you. Mithra managed to get us Club Lounge rooms which ment that we had free food and drinks all day (free alcoholic drinks from 5-7 every night) and access to a special club lounge pool which was empty every single day. It was the most relaxing 4 days I’ve ever spent. No worries about eating, no crowds at the pool/beach, georgeous room with one of those “rainfall” shower head things that are so popular in the US. It really was perfect. But, in a way, it was too perfect – there was no way to tell we were in Bali (aside from the offerings outside of the shops at the hotel). Nusa Dua is very sterile, catering to wealthy western tourists. It’s basically one long strip of 5 star resorts. Of course, you can’t see them from the beach or the road, but you know they’re there because of the long driveways.
After Nusa Dua, we headed up to Ubud, the “little gem” (along with the rest of the tourists on the island). Luckily we ended up staying in a beautiful little guest house a bit outside of the town in Nyu Kuning. Our room was gorgeous, we were the only ones at the beautiful pool, we had an outdoor shower and a huge sunken tub, the huge American or Indonesian style breakfast was served on our own balcony every morning, the owners were so kind and accommodating of our every request, and we got all that for US$40/night. Not too shabby.
Now the “hidden gem” of Ubud was not so much a “hidden gem” but more of a tourist hotspot/pitstop/central hub. Not quite the same feeling, if you know what I mean. There were shops selling the same crap you see everywhere (plus the occasional sparkly sandal and silk bag, both of which I purchased) lined up along the street, taxi touts everywhere shouting “you want transport?” one right after another, the sidewalks have an interesting stepped quality which makes walking up and down the large hills of Monkey Forest Road less fun than it might sound (yes, that’s the real name of the street), oh and of course, there’s the lurking monkeys everywhere (we already know I do not like monkeys). 
Yes, there are wonderful, cheap, restaurants, and beautiful temples, but they’re kind of hard to focus on, what with all the other clambering for your attention and worrying about tripping on the horrendous sidewalks.
We did enjoy 3 lovely day trips from Ubud. First, we visited the beautiful rice terraces of Tegalalang (and got roped into buying a US$13 carved wooden box from the shop keeper that has the “best view” of the paddies). Then we visited all of the major temples in the Ubud area on a day tour with a private driver (arranged by the hotel). We went to the Goa Gaga caves, Gunung Kawi, Kintamani, Besakhi, the Temple of Justice Klungkung.
Goa Gaga was very interesting. The carving around the entry to the temple shows god watching over the forest (you can see the animals and plants all around his face), with his hand pushing open the doorway for us and his eyes looking twards the entrance of the temple. We had an excellent guide that told us all about the sacred beliefs of all Balinese – focusing on karma and reincarnation – and then forced us to pay him a specific US dollar amount when he was done. We liked the temples, and the cave, but not the guilt.
Gunung Kawi was amazing. You walk down 371 steps with beautiful rice paddies on either side to get to the temple. Before you enter, you must sprinkle holy water on your head. When we went, the temple was mostly deserted, ironically the only other visitors were colleagues from my Ed. Leadership certificate program over at ISKL. We also got to wander into the actual area where the Balinese pray (because we were willing to remove our shoes, obviously that’s a problem for some people). The temple area was very peaceful and reminiscent of the buddha carvings that were destroyed in Afghanistan. I also got to see some chicks. I love chicks. And a waterfall. Then came the 371 steps back up to the entrance in the sweltering sun, wearing a sarong over my pants. Of course the entire way is populated by little stalls conviently selling tourist crap and cold water. “You want cold drink Lady?” “200 steps to go!” “You look tired Lady!” If I had stopped for a cold drink I’d still be there now, unable to force myself to climb those damn steps.
Kintamani had a breathtaking view of the huge volcano and lake in the center of the island. We would have enjoyed it more if our driver hadn’t cajoled us into lunch at yet another tourist trap which ended up costing a staggering US$23 (our other lavish meals never cost more than US$10).Although, our lunch did take place overlooking the beautiful view, and was a buffet so I do honestly feel I just about got my money’s worth (I can eat a surprising amount of fried rice, especially if chili spiced soy sauce is readily available)
Besakhi is the largest temple on Bali, and therefore one of the most visited by tourists. It is also the place where I finally lost my cool and had a bit of a “hissy fit.” To drive onto the temple grounds you must buy a ticket, which states a price of Rupiah 8,000/person. Somehow we ended up paying Rupiah 20,000 for two of us. “OK, no problem” I think to myself “it’s just 20 cents.” Then, as you walk from your car to the temple, a little man in a booth calls you over. He explained to us that every single person that visits the temple must take a local guide with them. No choice. You must. Oh, and you have to pay for the guide before you go. 
The usual rate is US$10. Alex handled this very delicately and gave the outrageous sum of US$5 for our unwanted guide (At this point I start to get angry, I made small mention of the fact that we paid an extra Rupiah 4,000 to enter the temple in the first place, doesn’t that count as “guide money?” No, that is the “tax”).
Then, we turn to walk up the mountain (please keep in mind the hot, tired Kimbo, being extorted only moments before) and the “sarong ladies” are right there yelling at us “You go to temple? You buy sarong. Must have sarong for temple! Rupiah 10,000 for one sarong!” And, that’s when I lost it. I calmly explained (only not exactly calmly, and not really explained, more like argued) that we had already been ripped off twice at this temple alone and I would not pay anyone another cent and now (since, by this point, I am officially “worked up”) I want my 5 dollars back.” All of a sudden the sarongs are included. Not that that made me any less angry. I mean, if the sarongs weren’t included a moment ago, and it only took me complaining about it to get them included, do we really need this guide? I do not like being deceived.
Anyway, we went to the temple and looked around. Our guide told us a few stories and prevented us from walking into certain sacred areas. It was fine.
Lastly we went to the Temple of Justice in KlungKung. By now Alex and I feel as if we have been driving around Bali for a month. My sun rash has returned with a vengeance and both my arms are bright red with itchy rashiness. I haven’t had enough water because I don’t want to stop to go to the bathroom and lunch is kind of rumbling around suspiciously in my stomach. But, to our surprise, the temple is beautiful, quiet, and free from beggars. 
One man asked (asked! what an idea!) if we wanted a personal tour, so we were able to say no. We wandered around for a while and enjoyed the splendidly painted ceilings and then made it back to the hotel.
On our final day in Bali we had the absolute best day of the week. We took a bike tour through the countryside (all downhill!).
It was so relaxing to finally be out in the country, to see the “real” Bali (or as close as we can get) and to be doing it all with the wind whipping through my hair. We got to see lots of little villages; lots of craftsmen and women carving for the tourist shops; a plantation with vanilla, cinnamon, pineapple, coffee, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, lemongrass, jackfruit, mango, durian, papaya, banana, etc, etc; have a delicious traditional Balinese lunch; and visit a private “middle-class” Balinese home. It was truly wonderful. 
Now, I realize as I write this that I sound like I’m cheap or stingy. That’s not it at all. Every day we heard lesson after lesson about karma, only to be ripped off moments later. I found it hard to focus on the wonderful culture of the Balinese because none of the people we met (with very few exceptions) exhibited it. I felt that it was just like any other tourist ridden place, like Cancun or something, not something special like everyone believes. That’s what I didn’t like. And I’m not sure how you could go to Bali and avoid it, because it was everywhere…
But, maybe you love Bali. Tell me about it!
I’ve been to Bali many times over the last few years and have got to know and understand it more and more with each visit – although I don’t claim to be an expert!
I feel that the real beauty of Bali is more than skin deep. Yes it has lovely beaches, stunning scenery and so on, but I think the main thing that makes Bali a candidate for paradise is the people and their unique traditions and culture. It’s a shame your memories of the Balinese people is not good, as I think the minority that focus on tourists are not representative.
To find the real Bali, in my opinion, you have to get off the beaten track. This is difficult to achieve if you depend on the tour guides and drivers that you meet in Kuta or around the airport. Their main motivation is short-term: to get commission by taking you to restaurants, hotels, etc. The ones that pay the most commission are the ones they want to take you to, and those are the establishments that attract the desperate sarong sellers and so on.
The key, in my opinion, is to find a guide who thinks longer term. Who wants to show you the real beauty and charm of Bali in the hope that you will come back again and again and recommend it to others. In other words, someone who wants to make a long-term relationship with his or her guests.
After going there about nine times in a row, I eventually bought some land right up in the North near Lovina. I have met and married a local woman and am honoured to be a welcome member of her family. The warmth and love they give to me (and each other) is truly heart-warming. They live a very simple life and they don’t have much in the way of material wealth, but their humour, compassion and humility make them millionaires in my book.
I hope you give Bali another chance in the future. After the bombings, they certainly need tourists.
Andrew,
Thanks for your feedback. I’m sure there are wonderful things about Bali. I wish we had seen more of them when we were there.
After reading through your comment, all I can say is that I guess what was so surprising to me is that we never even went to Kuta. We made a concerted effort to stay away from the major tourist spots as we understood them. This is why I originially wrote that Ubud should never, under any circumstances, be called a “hidden gem” (which is what we were told before leaving). Honestly, it’s my fault for believing something that was quite obviously written in all of the guidebooks. But, we live in Malaysia, our colleagues have travelled far and wide, and when they told us Ubud is a “hidden gem” I believed them. Like I said: my fault entirely. I should know better.
But, I will also say, in response to your comment above:
“To find the real Bali, in my opinion, you have to get off the beaten track. This is difficult to achieve if you depend on the tour guides and drivers that you meet in Kuta or around the airport.”
We never did any of these things. We were warned before we left that Kuta is a tourist trap, so we left the area immediately. In most cases we used drivers that our hotel recommended and did not travel on any group tours (except the bike tour, which was excellent, and highly recommended by our friends).
I think the fact is that over time, Bali has become such a tourist destination that the places that were once “hidden gems” and the “real Bali” are no longer like that. I’m sure they once were, which is why they have such a reputation. But, even with the bombings last year, every time we left our guest house, outside of Ubud in a little town called Nyu Kuning, we only saw toursits.
I’m sure there are still some “real Bali” spots left, we just didn’t see them. All we saw was obnoxious, money hungry, tourist grubbers (with a few exceptions), and to me, that does not make a happy vacation. I also think there are some difficulties with politics and the Indonesian goverment that have indirectly affected the toursits. Part of my unhappiness with the trip is that I am upset with myself for traveling to Indonesia, a country with endless human rights abuses under it’s belt. Again, I should have known better, and I certainly should have known that I would upset me personally.
Of course, we did not go to Lovina, and your guest house looks absolutely amazing, so you have clearly done a better job of understanding Bali than me. Perhaps Bali is not for everyone?
I have to agree with you about Bali. It was not what I expected at all. The fact is, it was once an amazing place with GREAT people. The tourist industry has turn Bali into something else. While the island is still full of amazing people this is not seen as a tourist and there is no escape. The heckling is ridiculous.
I was fortunate enough to know a few locals who showed me the true value of Bali, which I believe is the indigenous population. They are the only reason why I would return. However, I am interested to know of some areas in the South Pacific that you would recommend for a cultural and adventerous experience on a low budget.
Thanks, Bhima
Bhimasena,
I’m glad I wasn’t the only one who felt that way! You are so lucky to have found some of the real Bali while you were there.
In terms of traveling in this area, we loved Laos more than any other place. It’s not an island, and it’s definitely not in the South Pacific, but if you haven’t been there yet, I highly recommend it. Very cultural, very different, very cheap, very very friendly people. All in all a wonderful experience. I have some pictures of Laos posted here.
Another place you might like to visit is Borneo. We only went to Sarawak, but I have heard that Sabah is beautiful as well. I didn’t feel that Sarawak was overly touristy and most of the people I know that have lived in Malaysia for many years say that Kuching is reminicent of the way KL used to be. It’s a very cute town, easy to get around, everyone speaks English, and there is tons to do nearby: visiting longhouses, hiking in one of the many jungles and rainforests, snorkeling and diving. I have some pictures here, here, and here.
If you’re looking for a beach destination, you might also like Malaysia. There are some stunning beaches on the east coast. Most of them can be quite touristy, but they are beautiful and very relaxing. Here are some pictures of Tioman Island and Redang Island.
Have you been anywhere else that you would recommend?
I agree that all those once “hidden gems” like Ubud have all been well and truly discovered at this stage – by tourists and hawkers alike. It’s a shame but I guess that’s what happens when tourism isn’t handled responsibly and with a careful eye on the longer term issues.
I sympathise that you avoided Kuta but still missed the real Bali. You certainly tried your best and shouldn’t blame yourself for that. It’s kind of a vicious circle: the guides take people to the places that are labelled as “tourist spots”. Often there’s a financial aspect, but it’s also just that they don’t actually know any better. A typical example is the multi-tier waterfalls at Gitgit in the North of Bali. These are on every tourist’s itinerary if they go to the North of the island. So, naturally, there are tons of sarong merchants along the route. The guides don’t know, or care, that there are some really stunning waterfalls not far from Gitgit – ones where you can just enjoy their beauty without being hassled.
Another example is around Kintamani in the centre of Bali. Typically, tourists get taken on dawn treks up Mt Batur to see the spectacular sunset over the volcano and lake. The trouble is that the guides are (or were when I last looked) a bunch of pirates who hassle(d) guests mercilessly. There are some equally good treks in the area, where the “mountain mafia” don’t operate, but, once again, tourists don’t get taken there so they never know.
About the politics, without wishing to put words in anyone’s mouths, I’m pretty sure the local people in Bali don’t support many of the actions taken by their government in Jakarta. In fact, as I understand it, there are quite a few Balinese who would like to be independent. Some of the laws are obviously Muslim-biased and seem inappropriate in a predominantly Hindu province. From my understanding, corrupt governments have been accused of taking land from local people in order to build resorts and hotels. They have also been accused of lining their own pockets with public money. I’m not saying any of this is true, but if it is, it won’t have exactly endeared the government to the people of Bali.
In the end, I agree that perhaps Bali is not for everyone. Maybe there are two extremes. On the one hand there are the sun-worshippers who aren’t really interested in discovering new cultures and so on. They stay around Kuta and enjoy it as the booming tourist resort that it is. On the other hand, there are those people who look beneath the obvious and wish to connect with something more fulfilling. Bali has an awful lot to offer such people, but the local guides don’t know it! They pursue the idea that tourists want to see all the sights, take lots of photos and go home. To me, that entirely misses the magic of Bali. To me, the ideal trip to Bali should touch your heart, challenge your perceptions about how we live in the west and, hopefully, bring out the best in you.
I have lived in Thailand for quite a while. I have also been to Malaysia (including Tioman island) and Laos. In the end though, it was Bali – and especially the Balinese people – that kept drawing me back time after time.
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Hi my daughter who is 21 and I are going to Bali and staying in bungalow there. We know someone there but have never met them personally and are meeting up with a vendor in common from New York. We will be there with our Indonesian though not Balinese though living in Bali guide who is the most decent person I have met on the internet. We will be on our own for 5 days. Any suggestions for women traveling alone? I love silver jewelry and actually sell on Ebay. Any info would be greatly appreciated since i have traveled extensively in the past and want to have a great experience. Precautions or advice or ???? I really enjoyed these articles an the time you spent on photos and points of view. We are not all the same like the guide books sometimes imply. We live in Northern California if that helps!
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Hello,
We live in Hue in Vietnam and we are planning to go to Bali for a change. I read your interesting overview. Thank’s for that. Just one question, what’s the name of the guesthouse you mention in Ubud (we really want to find a nice place to relax) ?
many thank’s
Bertille